Oggi vediamo come assemblare i vari elementi. Cominciamo con il fare lo strato di asfalto della basetta.
La tecnica per realizzare il manto stradale la si può trovare anche sul canale Youtube a questo indirizzo: Realizzare strada asfaltata.
Di seguito riepilogo i passaggi:
Verso in un contenitore della sabbia silicea:
A questa aggiungo della colla vinilica. Le proporzioni sono circa 80% sabbia e restante colla:
Comincio a mischiare con un cucchiaio. Per amalgamare meglio l’impasto aggiungo un goccio d’acqua, senza esagerare altrimenti rischia di diventare melmoso. L’impasto con l’acqua deve avere l’aspetto di quello in foto:
Mi preparo la basetta spalmando sopra la colla vinilica.
Spalmo l’impasto sulla basetta e lo lascio asciugare:
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Una volta asciutto coloro tutto con un grigio medio:
Ecco come si presenta con il colore di fondo:
A colore asciutto utilizzo un grigio più chiaro per differenziare le tonalità:
Ed ecco la basetta con le chiazze di colore:
Con del colore nero molto diluito, finisco la pavimentazione sporcandola ulteriormente:
Marciapiede
Questo decido di farlo con sanpietrini.
Mi ricavo una lastra di polistirene dello spessore del marciapiede:
Bumperizzo con una pietra e con una spazzola di ferro la lastra:
Ritaglio l’intera lastra in tante striscioline.
Eseguo un ulteriore taglio di queste striscioline ottenendo tanti piccoli quadratini che rappresenteranno i miei sanpietrini:
Dopo aver segnato l’area ove poggerà il palazzo, comincio la posa dei sanpietrini tramite colla vinilica.
Mantengo un minimo di margine tra un sanpietrino e l’altro. Questo mi permetterà di avere delle fughe accentuate ove depositerò terra e vegetazione.
Finestre
Mi ritaglio un elemento di polistirene.
Con un cutter mi disegno la forma finale che assumerà la finestra:
Vernicio la finestra con un acrilico nero. Una volta asciutto il colore di fondo, provvedo a creare un effetto ruggine tramite un Terra di Siena Naturale passato a pennello asciutto e posato picchiettando con la punta lungo il telaio della finestra:
Prendo un foglio di acetato trasparente:
Per sporcarlo spruzzo della colla spray sulla superficie, dopodichè verso della malta cementizia. Parte di questa rimarrà incollata alla superficie, mentre l’eccesso lo elimino con un panno o un pennellino.
Divido la finestra a metà lungo lo spessore:
Incollo all’interno un pezzettino di foglio di acetato tagliato a misura. Fatto questo richiudo il telaio. Ecco come si presenta la finestra finita:
Posso sbizzarrirmi nel creare le finestre procedendo a ritagliare alcuni pezzettini dall’acetato per dare l’impressione di finestre con il vetro rotto. Ecco alcuni esempi:
Cartello stradale
Per il cartello, come anche per i parapetti stradali e gli altri elementi scenici in alluminio, utilizzo il filo di stagno per saldare, che ha la particolarità di essere molto duttile.
Per prima cosa procedo ad invecchiarlo, ossidandolo. Per fare questo lo lascio immerso per qualche ora in candeggina:
Su un tondino di ferro disegno il cartello. A pittura asciutta procedo a sporcarlo con polvere di cemento.
Ed ecco il cartello come si presenta:
Grondaia
Prendo due cannuccie e le ritaglio. Dopodichè saldo tra loro i pezzi con della colla a caldo per dare la forma mossa tipica delle grondaie invecchiate:
Passo la vernice color alluminio e a vernice asciutta procedo a sporcare con del mordente color mogano:
Continuo l’invecchiamento della grondaia punzecchiando con i seguenti colori: Terra di Siena Naturale (che simula la ruggine), Terra d’ombra naturale (un marrone scuro per per parti molto rugginose) e Bianco Titanio. Ecco come si presenta:
La grondaia contestualizzata:
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